Morocco: The Secret Gardens of Marrakech - Stewart Andersen

The Secret Gardens of Marrakech

Some of the buildings in Morocco are known as a riads. Built round a central courtyard, the meaning of the word riad (or riyadh) is garden, as Stewart Andersen found out when he visited Morocco over the New Year

The ancient Mercedes taxi that had picked us up at the modern airport at Marrakech had weaved its way through cars, buses, lorries, motorbikes and mopeds and finally arrived at the walls of the Medina, the ancient part of town.

Cutting through the back streets, Hussein managed to drive one-handedly and to turn round to impart the fact that his father was 109 years old and had reached such a venerable age by having four wives and a tranquil life and that he (Hussein) intended to try and follow his father’s example. He said he was glad we had come to Marrakech, chosen his taxi and to stay in a riad.

With a squeal of brakes, he pulled up opposite the end of a narrow, dimly lit street and indicated that we had arrived at our destination, the Riad Les Trois Mages. Peering round, I couldn’t see the normal entrance to a hotel, but pulling our bags out of the car and following him, we went down the narrow street, round a corner and stopped outside an anonymous door.

Our driver knocked and the door swung open to reveal a small modern reception area and then this in turn led into a lovely tiled courtyard. And this was where our education into the hidden world of riads began.

Dating back to Roman times and then to the occupation of Spain by the Moors, these wonderful buildings were based on the concept of a central courtyard with rooms that all faced inwards. There are no external windows and this meant there was protection and security for the family living in the riad and from the blank wall outside it would have been impossible to guess that the building was so extensive.

Light came down from the open roof area and if the ‘salons’ or family rooms on the ground became chilly, either doors could be closed or heavy curtains drawn. Bedrooms were located on the higher floors and the top terrace was used for eating or, these days, in the case of the Riad Les Trois Mages there’s even a small rooftop swimming pool and relaxing area.

We were intrigued by the polished surface of walls and Aidan Webster, the manager of the riad, explained that Tadelakt plaster was used as a virtually waterproof lime finish. Made up of several layers of plaster and then polished with a plasterer’s float and finally soft soap, Tadelakt plaster is used not only for covering walls but also for making bathtubs and showers.
He continued, “A riad (arabic for garden) to me is a medina house, built with rooms centred around an open-air courtyard on one or two storey's. Inwardly focused to allow for family privacy (the central courtyard should not be able to be seen from the derb (street), to avoid any prying eyes, weather protection (hot summers, cool winters) and noise reduction (metre thick adobe/pise walls - mud with chopped straw and lime).

He went on: “More recently and with the influx of foreigners buying them up, the definition of a riad has become slightly more generalised. Depending how traditional you go, the description in the Koran states: ‘Two aisles intersecting and an angle (usually 90 degrees) cutting the garden into four parterres, a garden of four rivers - water, milk, honey and (usually) wine’. Sometimes a riad includes a douiria (little house/apartment) for staff and usually a central fountain and decorated to the degree of wealth of the owner.

“Now renovated with zelige (handmade tiles with intersection/geometric styles) and beautifully ornate plasterwork and cedarwood carved door, a riad is a boutique accommodation, with home cooking and a haven away from the bustle of Marrakech's crazy streets!”

Many of the riads in Morocco have been converted into hotels but there are still opportunities for property investors to acquire one of these buildings and to restore them to their former glory. They can be purchased in Marrakech from around €250,000 upwards depending on the condition and the amount of work involved in the restoration. Whether you want a riad for setting up a business or just for family use, Marrakech is somewhere very special, the medina and the souk are enchanting and there is ease of access from the UK via easyJet.

Contact the Riad Les Trois Mages by going on-line at www.lestroismages.com

Stewart Andersen

Stewart has worked on a variety of magazines for more than 20 years as a journalist and editor, usually specialising on property and travel, both in the UK and overseas. His first book ‘Wild Thyme in Ibiza’ was published recently and this year he launched Property & Travel with Stewart Andersen